Wednesday, February 15, 2012

San Diego Trip - Missions - Day 7


Thursday, November 12, 2009
We drove inland through part of the coastal range to San Fernando, CA valley to tour Mission San Fernando Rey de Espana, which was named for King Ferdinand III of Spain and founded in 1797.  Located in an upscale residential neighborhood, this facility is a working Catholic Church as well as a center for the local archdiocese.  There are extensive, beautifully manicured gardens with many fountains and water features, courtyards and a museum with rooms full of historical exhibits – all in pristine condition.  To us, this mission seemed to be sort of a “Hollywoodized” version of a mission restoration; it is the closest mission to Hollywood.

In fact, Bob Hope is buried here, in his own memorial site in the gardens, with a space saved for Delores when her time comes.  They must have given a lot of money to the archdiocese.  The church itself is stunning, with a dramatic gilded reredos filled with statuary on the wall behind the altar.  In the museum, a special room is set aside for hundreds of Madonna statues from a private collection, with “Ave Maria” coming on over the sound system as you enter the room and turning off when you leave – a little spooky.  We were the only visitors in the whole facility at the time.
We drove to San Gabriel, CA to visit Mission San Gabriel Arcangel, located in the old section of the town.  We had to park on the street behind the mission, always a concern with our length and inability to back up without unhitching.  There was enough space, though, so it worked out fine.

There was a group of 4th graders in school uniforms just leaving the mission as we got there.  (In the California education system, the 4th graders all have a study unit on the history of the missions.  Adrienne will work on this sometime next spring.)  This mission was very large, with a Catholic school behind it.  The campanaria (bell tower) was the most impressive one we have seen yet: it contains 6 bells, 2 of which are over 200 years old, having been brought around Cape Horn on a schooner in 1791.  The church was beautifully restored in the primitive style, which is what it must have looked like in the mission era.  The reredos behind the altar was blue with 6 statues. There were extensive cactus gardens in the courtyard behind the church, along with many displays of historical artifacts.  Around the cemetery (mostly for priests), the Stations of the Cross were set into niches in the walls and huge old grapevines overarched the paths.
We had Mexican take-out food for lunch from Las Lunas restaurant cattycorner from the mission school.  This old part of San Gabriel is called the Mission District, a restored area with walking tours of the old streets and buildings.  There were many houses and museums to visit there, but our time schedule this day did not permit that.  Maybe next time.  While Pat negotiated the scary freeways of the LA area, I fed him his lunch.  With Mexican food, this can be a messy process, but fortunately, he was able to multitask.  The food was delicious.
We drove towards the coast to Mission San Juan Capistrano in the town of the same name.  The mission is located about a mile from the ocean and is surrounded by the city in a commercial district.  We had to park on the street again, but luckily there was room for both vehicles.
The mission facility is very large and complex; the mission has been restored many times after several earthquakes in the last 200 years.  Next to the mission stands a very imposing ruin of the old stone (not adobe) church built in 1771 in the shape of a cross with a barrel vault over the altar.  This church was destroyed in an earthquake on December 8, 1812, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, killing 42 Indians.  Four mission bells are now hanging in niches in a wall adjoining the ruins.
Fr. Junipero Serra’s chapel is present on the grounds, very beautiful with an ornate reredos on the wall behind the altar.  It was built in 1777, making it the oldest surviving original church where Fr. Serra actually said Mass.  In the museum, there were many rooms full of historical artifacts. There were extensive courtyards, rose gardens and fountains with koi and goldfish, as well as “industrial” areas off to the side where there were demonstrations of adobe brick making, water systems and vegetable and herb gardening.  The actual condition, use of and treatment of the Indians in the 17- and 1800’s is not stressed here. 
The mission complex is a lovely setting with a huge gift shop.  We bought a small cross there, then on our way back to the RV, we purchased a small display of crosses mounted on a background, as well as actually meeting James, the artist who had made the display.
We then drove to Admiral Baker Field Campground, a naval facility in the San Diego area.  This campground is a real find.  It lies in a canyon with a creek running through it, lots of trees, clean bathrooms and laundromat, extensive sheltered picnic areas with barbeque pits, close to shopping, restaurants, the San Diego mission, the football stadium, and as luck would have it, a branch of Kaiser Hospital.  It is not a gated facility, but only military and retired military are allowed to camp there.  Non-military groups can rent the picnic areas for day use on a first-come, first-serve basis.

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